AlexBromo
3 posts
Joined: 28/02/2005 17:35:11
Location: Bagno a Ripoli Italy
Crank pulley locktab
Must replace the old locktab for crank pulley, so I've bought the 12A398 from Minispares. The older is a thick plain locktab with a little tooth to engage in the crank's groove and a border to fold to the bolt, but the new item is different, it is little cone-shaped and without tooth:
i would want the right orientation to correct install it: a) Bolt /---------\ Pulley or b) Bolt \---------/ Pulley in other words: is it a kind of spring washer (a), or a locktab with a border to fold over the bolt (b)?!? Tnx ALex
Posted: May 27, 2008 09:05 AM
mark
397 posts
Joined: 18/08/2005 14:01:28
Location: Hitchin United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
I would say b too
Posted: May 29, 2008 08:04 AM
Thank you Mark for response. In "b)" solution must fold the border of the locktab on a face of the bolt, but how can i lock the locktab over the pulley ? They has not the tooth to put in the pulley's recess ...
ALex_
Posted: May 29, 2008 08:23 AM
If u have an 'a' series its the right item
a+ is tam2020
Posted: May 29, 2008 11:46 AM
Nomininolife
79 posts
Joined: 02/10/2004 12:31:42
Location: SHEFFIELD United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Bolts
The flywheel bolt is 1 1/2 and the crank pulley bolt is 1 5/16
Posted: Jan 24, 2005 03:28 PM
Luke6040
210 posts
Joined: 17/11/2005 17:00:38
Location: Wolverhampton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Crank damper
is it ok to swap the crank damper pulley from the pressed type to the other type fitted to the 1275?
Posted: Feb 27, 2008 05:54 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Squeak
Could be the alternator, unlikely to be the crank pulley. Have you tightened the fanbelt properly?
Posted: Nov 13, 2012 11:26 AM
paul humphries
14 posts
Joined: 01/03/2011 21:45:36
Location: St Johns Chapel United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Hi, had a squeak from engine that varied with engine revs thought it was the water pump. Fitted new pump and if anything squeak is louder. Could it be the alternator bearings or crank pulley?
Posted: Nov 11, 2012 10:11 AM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Valve Rocker Adjustment
Hi, I've never heard of 1-turn i'm afraid. As you may have also guessed I've never had to do it on an automatic either. Some minis can be cranked over using the fan belt once the spark plugs are removed. The alternative is to get a socket/spanner on the crank pulley nut rather than take the starter motor out.
Posted: May 28, 2013 04:20 PM
old fart
2 posts
Joined: 23/11/2018 09:26:15
Location: Morrinsville New Zealand
SPEEDO DRIVE/ END COVER GASKET
Short answer - Yes. Grille off, radiator out, support gearbox underneath and remove mounting plate. Crank pulley off. Replase the small gsaket on the cover as well as the main speedo housing cover. Buy bandaids. Cheers.
Posted: Feb 17, 2021 04:25 AM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
there is two types as far as iam aware cooper s type with separate damper on the pulley and later type with pully with molded on rubber damper. cooper s is best one but either will be ok for standard-fast road engine. if you have stroked or very high reving engine fancy dampers are prob worth buying. as far as iam aware you can fit either type of damper to any a series crank.
Posted: Feb 27, 2008 07:35 PM
converting to electronic ignition
have a look on here http://www.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system.htm gives it simply. just changing to electrnic dystrib wont solv the wet problems as it is exposed in the same way. you need to improve ur sheilding of it to prevent the damp. distrib less igniton uses a sensor on the crank pulley eg megajolt these wont be as prone to water mist but are expensive and not as easy to fit.
Posted: Jan 23, 2008 01:05 PM
jimmer
55 posts
Joined: 08/11/2004 18:36:11
Location: Glastonbury United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
my 1992 mayfair with a 1275 metro engine
hiya on my engine i have the timing marks on the crank case at what point shall i set up2 with the mark on the pulley and whats the best way of getting the timing set right as i runs on after the i turn the ignition off shall i do in stages for example set the revs at a 3000rpm or something im a bit worried im gona damge my engine soon
Posted: Jun 30, 2007 11:34 PM
r. mcdowell
Joined: 07/08/2006 18:51:27
Location: belfast United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
My total rebuild
well, ive got a little more done to the mini over the last few weeks.i got the clutch and flywheel fitted so was able to torque up the cam and crank pulleys and fit the timing belt cover. I also got my new minispares rocker cover and after a bit of modifing got it to fit past the extra stud at the thermostat end.(nothing has been straight forward on this build) I also got new 4 pot calipers and vented grooved discs with all braided pipework from ebay. i fitted these yesterday...look good on the car. i trial fitted my wheels to see how the curve of the non-genuine arches would be...these need a bit of work as they are not a perfect fit. Also stripped more from the car including all the door parts,dash clocks and top dash section. i have included a couple of photos of the progress..hope you like them. i will continue to post and am enjoying reading other peoples similar stories of rebuilding their mini's. Bye for now.
Posted: Oct 27, 2006 02:24 PM
trying to get a new (2nd hand) engine started.....help
hey
like he said get someone to crank the engine as they do move the dizzy till it fires up and sounds ok.
then you'll need a timing light. if youve got a timing light try this iv stole this post from www.theminiforum.co.uk and a guy called dklawson : I've been waiting for your post since you bought the gun. Let's start with the obvious and basics. There should be a red lead. Connect that to a source of +12V (perhaps the solenoid). The second lead will be the black one and it goes to a good, bare earthing point, preferably on the block or head. The inductive clamp lead goes around the spark plug wire for cylinder #1. Look carefully at the clamp. There MAY be an arrow on it. The arrow should point towards the spark plug. Start learning to use your gun WITHOUT the advance knob. Turn the knob until the its pointer lines up with its zero mark (turn the advance function OFF). Start the car's engine, point the gun at the timing marks (presumably on the front of your engine) and squeeze the gun's trigger. The strobe should fire each time #1 spark plug fires. This will appear to freeze the relationship of the pulley to the pointer. Read what's going on with the timing marks. If it's necessary (or you want) to adjust/change your ignition timing, stop the engine and loosen the bolt(s) securing your distributor to the block. JUST BARELY LOOSEN, you don't want the distributor to move at this point. Restart the engine and set the idle speed where your specs say it should be (disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line also). Point the timing light at the pulley and read the relationship of the pointer and the mark on the pulley. Determine if you need to advance or retard the timing. While still firing the timing light, use your other hand to gently twist the dizzy and you'll observe the timing mark on the pulley moves relative to the pointer. Stop when the marks are where you want them then tighten the distributor clamp again. That's the basics. Now let's move on to using the advance knob. Let's say you have a spec that says your distributor should be giving you an [u]increase[/u] of 20 degrees of timing at 3000 RPM. Start the engine and read where the idle advance is using the light as set above. Write it down. Now add the 20 degrees to the idle timing you observed (say you measured 8 BTDC at idle and you add 20 to that for a total of 28 degrees). Turn the advance knob to 28 and point it at the crank pulley. The mark will be NOWHERE close. Now bring the RPM up either using the throttle or the idle screws. When you hit 3000 RPM the mark on the pulley and the zero mark on the pointer should be close to alignment if the advance is working properly. Remember... I made up these numbers. Look up what's right for your engine. Now let's talk about timing your car to it's maximum advance. Most cars can stand about 32-35 degrees of TOTAL ignition advance. To set this on your engine, disconnect and plug the vacuum advance as mentioned above. Set the gun's advance dial to 32 degrees. With the dizzy clamp loosened, bring the engine RPM up to 4000 RPM using the idle screws. Fire the timing light at the crank pulley and note where the marks are. Turn the dizzy until the zero mark on the pulley lines up with the zero pointer mark, then tighten the dizzy down. Reduce the idle speed to "normal" and use the gun to see where your idle advance is after setting it at 4000 RPM. Write it down. Reconnect the vacuum advance and take the car on a test drive. During the drive put the car under heavy load. Try accelerating uphill in a gear that's higher than called for (a hill that's best taken in 3rd, put the car in 4th and floor the accelerator). If you hear pinging, pull over and use the timing light (at idle will be fine) to retard the timing 2 degrees. Repeat the load testing... retarding the timing in 2 degree steps until you no longer hear pinging. At that point, measure and record your advance at idle. You have now used your advance timing light to set the maximum ignition advance your engine can handle for its mechanical condition and accounting for the fuel that you buy. Note that in all the cases where you're using the advance knob... you're using the scale on the advance knob to measure the degrees of advance. You're lining up the zero timing marks on the engine and measuring the degrees of advance based on the knob position on the gun instead.
Posted: Mar 17, 2008 06:28 PM
Deano
Joined: 24/01/2005 11:05:12
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Sizes of bolts?
Hi Im quite new to the mini seen and ive just picked up a clean 1985 mini 1000 with a view of putting a 1275gt engine in, the problem is ive just come down to stripping this 1275gt lump to have it bored out to a 1293 and im not sure of the sizes of the big flywheel bolt and also the crank pulley bolt can anyone help??? Thanks alot all Deano
Posted: Jan 24, 2005 11:12 AM
Alternator making powder of belts...
Dave,
What engine and year? Any modifications?
Typically the belt should be tight enough if the deflection is approx. 1/2" on the run between the alternator and the crank pulley.
Check the alignment of the alternator pulley to the water pump and crank pulleys. The "throw" can be adjusted by shimming the mounting bolts if necessary. You can get a spray of anti-squeal for belts to check but the powdering of the belt suggests slippage or a binding alternator.
The alternator should charge at 14.5volts until the battery is full, then it drops back to 12.5volts. Have you run a resistance check on the wires from the alternator connector blocl back to the fuse box? If they are all good then you may be looking at a double blind from a faulty replacement alternator.
Posted: Feb 06, 2015 11:34 AM
Danny.mini
21 posts
Joined: 30/06/2007 09:29:23
Location: higham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
2nd MINI this one my Project
right got the sensors now :) just waiting on a radiator cowl and my crank pulley then the baby can be started
the front end... ive got a flip-front to be fitted my brother in law is spraying that for me and then a pannels :) and also my boot lid so that wont be toooo pricey
will pull the mini out the garage weekend/when crank pulley is here take some more pictures
its finaly looking like something now :D
P.S B.martin post some pictures of your project mate would love to see them
Posted: Feb 28, 2008 09:56 PM
Jo
4 posts
Joined: 17/10/2004 15:08:09
Location: Isle of Man United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
F.A.O Mr Calver....
If you still frequent the forum at all...?? not been here myself in a while. Thinking of getting a Poly V belt kit (Part No. C-AEA538A) to drive the ancillaries etc... Is the crank pulley in the kit as good as the old cooper s ones? Many thanks J Holtby
Posted: Mar 15, 2005 02:20 PM
Roy
261 posts
Joined: 19/09/2005 19:34:20
Location: huntingdon United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
screaming from engine???
Posted: Dec 09, 2005 04:00 PM